The Virée dans la Vallée des Glaces: a 15 or 20 km cross-country ski through Hautes-Gorges National Park in Charlevoix. Dates, route, shuttles and base camp.
Every winter, in mid-February, Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park opens for a gathering that has become a rite of passage among Quebec's cross-country skiers: the Virée dans la Vallée des Glaces — the "ride through the Valley of Ice." For one weekend, you clip into classic skis and glide 15 or 20 kilometres along the floor of a valley carved by glaciers millions of years ago, where the walls plunge straight down to the frozen river. There is no race, no clock: just a contemplative, accessible and deeply beautiful crossing.
Born from a non-profit founded by two sports physicians, la Virée Nordique de Charlevoix has, since 2015, been coordinated and produced by Événements Harricana (Trail Running Québec) — the same team behind the Ultra-Trail Harricana. Its mission has stayed the same: to open up the region's most emblematic landscapes once a year. The 2027 edition is expected in mid-February; recent editions ran February 17–18, 2024, February 14–16, 2025, and February 13–15, 2026. The exact date and registration opening are to be confirmed on the organization's website.
The Valley of Ice, a winter cathedral
Classic cross-country skiing in Charlevoix. Photo: Tourisme Charlevoix.
The Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie hold some of the highest cliffs east of the Rockies. In summer you climb them by boat or on foot; in winter the valley freezes and silence takes over. It is here, on classic cross-country trails, that the Virée unfolds: a 15 or 20 kilometre route pushing toward the chemin de l'Équerre, with — conditions permitting — a spectacular return along the frozen Malbaie River.
The spirit is discovery, not performance. The pace is your own, the mood convivial, and the course suits the beginner looking for a challenge as much as the seasoned skier who came to take in the valley under snow. You glide, you pause, you look up. Few places in Quebec offer such a face-to-face with the mountains in winter.
The route, the shuttles and the après-ski
The logistics are designed so you can focus on skiing. Access to the start is by mandatory shuttles (free, no reservation) from the main parking lot — worth knowing so you don't lose time in the morning. Along the way, aid stations offer drinks and snacks, and an après-ski meal (wraps, gluten-free options) waits for skiers at the finish.
A few rules frame the day: you must wax your skis before arriving (there is no waxing room on site), dress in layers for the cold of the Hautes-Gorges, and watch the clock — the return cut-off is 2:30 p.m., with the last shuttle around 3 p.m. Nothing constraining, just enough to plan a relaxed day.
Three days, several nordic adventures
The Valley of Ice is the headline act, but it is part of a festival that animates Charlevoix for a whole weekend, with an event for every taste:
- Planeta Luna (Friday evening) — To open the festivities, a night-time snowshoe hike, headlamp on, punctuated by illuminated stations: about 1h15 in a magical atmosphere, starting from the Astroblème Observatory and capped with a snack and a Microbrasserie Charlevoix beer.
- Le P'tit Marathon (Saturday) — A cross-country classic: nearly 17 km along the St. Lawrence between Petite-Rivière-Saint-François and Baie-Saint-Paul, with staggered morning starts and a Charlevoix soup at the finish. Every level finds its pace.
- La Virée dans la Vallée des Glaces (Saturday and Sunday) — The flagship 15 or 20 km cross-country route through the heart of the Hautes-Gorges, described above.
- La Course du Yéti des Glaces (Sunday) — A 10 km winter foot race on packed snow, along the frozen river between Saint-Irénée and La Malbaie. Timed, accessible (free for ages 14 and under) and followed by a post-race meal.
Enough to ski on Saturday and extend the stay differently on Sunday — our guide to winter activities in Charlevoix has more ideas. As with the Ultra-Trail Harricana — the same organization's autumn flagship — the secret to a great sporting weekend often comes down to a good base camp.
The base camp: the Le Littoral chalet
The living room and its fireplace at the Le Littoral chalet. Photo: Charlevoix Chalets.
After a day of gliding in the cold, nothing beats a place to set down your skis and let the fatigue melt away. Less than an hour's drive from the park entrance, the Le Littoral chalet in Cap-à-l'Aigle is built for exactly this. The fireplace crackles in the large living room overlooking the river, the big kitchen lets you cook for the whole crew, and the long table brings everyone together when the skis come off.
The sauna at the Le Littoral chalet, perfect after a day on skis. Photo: Charlevoix Chalets.
Above all, the Le Littoral chalet leans on its sauna and outdoor spa — the royal combination for recovery. You move from the dry heat of the sauna to the icy February air, then sink into the hot water of the spa under the stars: a homemade contrast therapy that eases the legs and closes the day in style.
For families and larger groups: L'Embâcle
The living room at L'Embâcle, fireplace and river view. Photo: Charlevoix Chalets.
When the group is large — families, gangs of skiing friends — the L'Embâcle chalet takes over. Its generous living spaces, its fireplace facing the river and its spa make it a warm headquarters where everyone finds their place: those who skied, those who waited, and the children with their own energy to burn. It is the kind of place where a ski weekend turns into a real winter holiday.
Recover properly: heat, rest and a good table
The kitchen at the Le Littoral chalet, for après-ski feasts. Photo: Charlevoix Chalets.
Recovery, as skiers know, matters as much as the effort. The recipe: heat (sauna, spa), rest, sleep and a good meal. To work out tired muscles, regional massage therapists can travel to the chalet, by reservation and at your own cost. And for dinner, no need to head back out into the cold: a private chef can prepare the après-ski meal right at the chalet. Should a small mishap occur, our guide to health care around La Malbaie keeps the right addresses within reach.
Because that is the whole spirit of the Virée: a day in the open air in one of Quebec's most beautiful winter settings, followed by an evening in the warmth, with friends or family. The skiing offers the challenge; the base camp offers the comfort. Book early — come mid-February, the chalets go fast.
To rent a luxury chalet in La Malbaie (Cap-à-l'Aigle), Charlevoix, discover the Le Littoral chalet with heated pool, sauna and spa. Book your stay online or call 418-476-1442.