Photo: Charlevoix Chalets
Chapelle McLaren (Port-au-Persil)
There are places of worship that impress through sheer scale. The McLaren Chapel in Port-au-Persil impresses through the opposite — its modesty, its rightness, its perfect harmony with the surrounding landscape.
History
Built in 1902 by John McLaren, son of Neil McLaren — the Scottish immigrant who founded the hamlet of Port-au-Persil in the late nineteenth century — this small wooden Presbyterian church is still owned by the McLaren family today. Originally named an "evangelical Presbyterian church," it served the region's Protestant community at a time when Port-au-Persil was a village of fishermen and loggers perched on the estuary's edge.
The chapel is no longer affiliated with any particular denomination, but it remains open to the public.
Architecture and stained glass
Built entirely of wood, the chapel possesses a sobriety that gives it a timeless elegance. Its south wall houses a stained-glass window depicting the Burning Bush — a biblical motif that takes on particular resonance in this setting of boreal forest and river.
From its steps, the view of the St. Lawrence is striking. The morning light here is especially beautiful — the light that Charlevoix painters have always sought.
Port-au-Persil
The chapel is part of an ensemble best not visited piecemeal. The Port-au-Persil wharf, steps away, offers views of the river and the boats moored there. The hamlet itself — about a hundred souls, wooden houses, a silence broken only by birds and waves — is a place of contemplation where time slows.
For those interested in marine life, belugas and seals are observable from the neighbouring shores.
Nearby
Port-au-Persil is approximately twenty minutes from the chalet Le Littoral in Cap-à-l'Aigle, La Malbaie, Charlevoix. The visit to the chapel, wharf, and village takes about an hour — a brief but memorable stop, ideal in the late afternoon before returning to the chalet to enjoy the terrace and the sunset over the mountains. For more nearby outing ideas, see our guide to renting a chalet in La Malbaie.
