Photo: Tourisme Charlevoix
Port-au-Persil wharf
Port-au-Persil is the kind of place that guidebooks struggle to describe without falling into the "quaint village" cliché. So let us put it differently: it is a hamlet of about a hundred souls, perched on the St. Lawrence estuary, founded in the late nineteenth century by Neil McLaren, a Scottish immigrant. Samuel de Champlain himself named the place. Something here has not changed in decades — an unhurried pace, an effortless beauty.
The wharf
The Port-au-Persil wharf is fifteen minutes from the chalet Le Littoral in Cap-à-l'Aigle, La Malbaie, Charlevoix. It is a characterful little port, one of those places you visit without a plan and leave with something — a photograph, a memory of light, the sound of boats gently knocking against the pilings.
Children love watching the vessels. Adults find a calm that the region, for all its beauty, does not always yield this easily. In the late afternoon, when the sun drops behind the mountains and sets the river ablaze, the wharf becomes a privileged observation point. Locals often stroll here in the evening — a ritual it would be a shame to miss.
The McLaren Chapel
Steps from the wharf, the McLaren Chapel — a small wooden Presbyterian church dating to 1902, built by John McLaren — deserves a detour. Its stained-glass window depicting the Burning Bush and its view of the St. Lawrence make for a brief but memorable visit.
Nearby
The round trip between the chalet and Port-au-Persil is an ideal late-afternoon outing — thirty minutes of total driving, an hour or two of strolling, and back to the chalet for an apéritif on the terrace with the memory of the river still fresh. If the sea air has whetted your appetite, your vacation home's gourmet kitchen is equipped to prepare a supper worthy of the scenery — see our guide to renting a chalet in La Malbaie to discover everything this area has to offer.
